Cylinder & Slide Extended Ejector 1911 45 ACP Blue

Product #: 942644 Cylinder & Slide #: CS136B
$28.99
Status:
Date expected in stock: 05/28/2013
Notify Me
X

We're very sorry, but due to extremely high demand and limited supply, we are unable to provide reliable notifications for this product. Therefore, the "Notify Me" feature has been disabled.

Please Sign In to use this feature.

Product Information

This extended ejector is made of high quality steel with a matte finish. Will require fitting to your particular gun.

Technical Information

Dimensions (approximate):
  • Overall Length: 1.105"
  • Front Stud Length: .270"
  • Rear Stud Length: .080"

    Gunsmithing Required: Yes

    Notes on Ejectors:
  • Replacing an ejector on a 1911 is often a tricky business, and is not recommended for the home hobbyist. The traditional way of securing the ejector to the frame is with a crosspin, however some modern manufacturers of 1911 type guns do not use this method. They instead use a locking compound, like Locktite™ to secure the ejector to the frame. In these guns, there are no holes drilled in the frame to allow for the use of a crosspin. If there is no hole drilled in the frame of your 1911 in the slide rail of the frame just above the plunger tube, then your ejector is not "pinned" in place. The removal procedure for an ejector which is not pinned involves heating the frame in the area of the ejector mounting studs. Heating of a gun frame is an undertaking for only the experienced gunsmith. Over heating may cause changes in the structure of the metal, affecting integrity and possibly making the gun unsafe to use. If you are unsure of the method by which your ejector is held in place, consult a gunsmith
  • Another kink; even if you have a pinned ejector, the installation process is not as simple as it may seem. 1911 parts manufacturers do not typically drill the front mounting stud of ejectors, due to variance in mounting stud hole depth and cross pin location. To replace an ejector, you must drive the cross pin out, place the ejector in a soft-jawed vice, and pull on the frame until the ejector comes free. Attempting to "wiggle" the frame or pry on the ejector can result in the mounting studs breaking off in the holes, and then you have a real problem. Once the old ejector is out of the frame, the new one must be dressed to fit the frame for mounting stud depth and cross pin location. The cross pin hole which must be drilled in the mounting stud is not one that will pass through the studs center, but will be off-center and will form a "half-moon" shape in the stud. It is extremely difficult to drill a half-moon shape into the stud with a drill press, and impossible with a hand held drill. Attempting to drill the hole with the stud in the frame can cause the pin hole which passes through the frame to be damaged and could render the frame unusable. It is therefore not recommended to attempt any ejector removal or installation by people other than qualified gunsmiths. This information is not provided to disuade anyone from attempting to perform work on their gun, it is instead meant as a service to our customers so they can make an educated decision on what operations they can do at home, and which ones they can select parts for and take them to their local gunsmith for installation.
    • Was this information helpful? Yes No

    This Information was not helpful because:

    Know someone who may like this? Email this Page to a Friend

    Customer Reviews

    The statements and opinions expressed within Customer Reviews reflect each author's personal perspective and do not imply endorsement by MidwayUSA, its Employees or any other organization. Customers should in no way infer that MidwayUSA has validated review information as safe, accurate or appropriate.

    NOTE: Prices, specifications and availability are subject to change without notice.
    We reserve the right to correct typographic, photographic and/or descriptive errors.
    Navigation
    Recently Added
    Suggested Products