Getting body armor is something that many prepared citizens decide is a worthy investment to enhance their self-defense capabilities. With it being so readily available (in most states, at least), there really hasn’t been a better time to get body armor, thanks to a market full of options. However, this never-ending sea of options can make it difficult to determine what level of armor protection you need based on your parameters. And the standards are actually changing from levels II, IIIA, III, and IV to HG1, HG2, RF1, RF2, and RF3, which makes it even more complicated. If your job doesn’t require you to wear armor where standards are already pre-set for you, then hopefully, this discussion can help you make an informed decision before you purchase your own.
Physical Capability
Before deciding on what level of protection you need or what size or shape of the plates you might want, you have to be realistic about your own physical capabilities. Body armor can be heavy, and the more protection you want, the heavier it tends to be--especially if you are on a budget, as lightweight, high-protection-rated plates can be very expensive. First, I would consider what gear you would expect to carry with the body armor based on intended use. For example, if you’re considering it for home defense and you’re only concerned about a rifle, some extra magazines, and the armor itself, then more weight can be allocated to the armor itself. However, if you are considering it for long excursions away from home with a backpack full of gear, water, and all kinds of additional weight, then the weight of the armor itself could put the total package over a manageable limit. If you’re not physically capable of wearing the armor, then it will not do much good. Luckily, there are options for all weight profiles that can work for everyone’s physicality.
Protection Levels
Body armor is rated by the National Institute of Justice where they have recently changed to the NIJ Standard 0123.00 to streamline the nomenclature. However, many body armor companies have not yet updated their armor level ratings to the new standards. So, for now, we are required to understand both the old and new NIJ Standards to decipher what level of protection we are receiving when buying armor. So, to make it easier, here is a quick breakdown and comparison:
- Level II = HG1 (Stops 9mm Luger, .357 Magnum)
- Level IIIA = HG2 (Stops up to .44 Magnum)
- Level III = RF1 (Stops 7.62x51mm NATO M80 Ball)
- Level III+ (not a NIJ standard) = RF2 (Special threat, generally RF1 + M855 5.56x45mm)
- Level IV = RF3 (Stops 30-06 Armor Piercing Rounds)
Each protection level offers more than the last, but the compromise usually comes in the form of weight and form factor. Many will say that Level IV or RF3 plates are what you should get to cover all of your bases. Even I have said that in the past. However, there is a time and place for other protection levels that should be considered, especially in the new RF2 armor rating, which was only introduced by the NIJ with the new standards. Level III+ was never standardized by the NIJ and was used by armor manufacturers to demonstrate that their plates were more capable than just Level III. Now that you know the body armor nomenclature and what the different levels mean, let’s discuss the pros, cons, and types of armor in each protection level category.
Choosing Body Armor Protection Level
Each body armor protection level has its pros and cons with multiple ways to carry and wear it based on composition and size. Because of the complexity of all of these options (especially for someone who is brand new to this topic), I will give you some product references for each body armor type in order to reference what it is we are actually discussing. I will also give you my recommendations based on personal experience, testing, and use case scenarios.
Level II / HG1
Honestly, I would not recommend Level II or HG1 body armor at this point in time. It basically has zero benefits over Level IIIA / HG2, is less available, and has slightly less protection. As it stands now, level II or HG1 is not something worth acquiring, in my opinion.
Level IIIA / HG2
Level IIIA/ HG2 is the lowest level of protection worth considering as it has some very practical benefits over the higher protection levels. And in some cases, it’s the best level of protection you can expect for certain applications. Body armor at this rating can stop up to .44 magnum rounds, which is impressive as it’s very lightweight and thin. That's why it’s extremely popular for law enforcement purposes. Most crimes involving firearms are committed with handguns, and this armor protects from that threat extremely well. However, it also protects from fragmentation, which is why it is often found in side panels on plate carriers or lining ballistic helmets. Here are some products that showcase how Level IIIA / HG2 armor can be used:
- Premier Body Armor Everyday Armor T-Shirt: This is a compression shirt with armor pockets with a Level IIIA insert for the front and the back. This allows for easily concealed armor to be worn under a heavy shirt.
- VISM Stand Alone Soft Level IIIA Ballistic Plate: These are more traditional body armor plates that require a plate carrier. The Large size is the standard 10”x12” plate size compatible with most plate carriers on the market. This allows the full capability provided by wearing a plate carrier (magazine pouches, communications, first aid, water, and more can be attached to most plate carriers) while adding barely any weight for the armor itself (less than one pound per plate). The VISM Plate Carrier is an example of a plate carrier that would work with these armor plates.
- Premier Body Armor Universal Fit Level IIIA Backpack Panel: These Level IIIA / HG2 backpack panels are a great way to add enhanced protection to your everyday carry bag or even your child’s school backpack. It creates a shield capable of stopping handgun rounds that can be moved to the front or be hidden behind in case of an emergency.
- VISM Ballistic Helmet Level IIIA: As previously mentioned, many ballistic helmets have a Level IIIA or HG2 armor rating. Even though they are capable of stopping handgun rounds up to .44 Magnum, their main purpose is stopping fragmentation from causing head injuries. Often when helmets are being worn, especially in the military, handgun rounds are not the primary threat being considered. This is the same reason why many choose Level IIIA / HG2 side panels for their plate carrier, such as the VISM Stand Alone Level IIIA Soft Ballistic Side Plate. As long as your plate carrier has a cummerbund that can accept side panels (like the Condor Modular Operator Plate Carrier Gen 2), you can protect your vital organs from any incoming fragmentation or pistol rounds headed toward your generally unprotected sides.
There are two main benefits of choosing Level IIIA / HG2 for your body armor necessities. The first is that it is extremely lightweight and flexible, which may be a determining factor based on your physical capability. This can also be more comfortable for women as rigid plates can be uncomfortable due to their anatomy. The second is that it is usually much more affordable than other armor options. Even if you plan on getting high-end, expensive rifle-rated plates in the future, you could get Level IIIA / HG2 armor now and at least have something in the meantime without breaking the bank.
Level III / RF1 armor really only comes in the form of armor plates and will require the use of a plate carrier. The aforementioned plate carriers in the Level IIIA / HG2 section would suffice for budget-friendly options. If you were interested in plate carriers of higher quality, I would recommend the Mayflower Assault Plate Carrier or the Blue Force Gear PLATEminus 6 Plate Carrier. Rifle plates at this protection rating can stop handgun rounds as well as 12 gauge shotgun shells and 7.62x51mm NATO M80 FMJ rounds. Here are some products that have the Level III / RF1 armor rating:
- Spartan Armor Spartan AR550 Steel Body Armor Level III Stand Alone Ballistic Plate: A lot of Level III / RF1 armor on the market comes in the form of steel plates. Steel plates are generally more affordable and very thin but tend to be on the heavier side. For example, this plate, in particular, weighs 8.625 pounds. They offer multi-hit protection from the cartridges they’re rated for, as steel does not easily deform. Because of its inherent durability, they have a long shelf life in comparison to other armor plate materials. Although Level III / RF1 steel plates are more affordable, they do have some drawbacks. They can cause what is known as “spalling” where shrapnel from the impacted projectiles can fragment in multiple directions. Although most armor manufacturers use specialized coatings to decrease the risk of spalling on steel armor, that is still a downside to using this material.
- VISM Body Armor Level III Stand Alone Ballistic Plate: This Level III / RF1 armor plate is an example of a non-steel offering that offers the same level of protection but in a much lighter package. This plate is made out of UHMWPE or Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene and weighs in at 3.3 pounds. Due to the materials used, UHMWPE plates tend to be thicker, but that rarely creates any issues once inserted into a plate carrier (as long as the plate carrier can accommodate the thickness). Although these plates are lighter weight and offer the same amount of protection as their steel counterparts, they do have some compromises. They are not generally rated for multi-hit capabilities, as each impact creates a weakened area in the armor. And, they usually have a shorter shelf life/warranty term as the materials are more prone to impacts (such as being dropped) and the environment.
The main reasons for choosing Level III / RF1 armor plates at this time are cost and weight. These plates can be extremely lightweight for the amount of protection they provide while also being affordable. Unfortunately, I do not generally recommend Level III / RF1 plates as they fail to protect you against the most common fighting rifle cartridge in the United States of America, the 5.56x45mm NATO. Due to the high velocities of the 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge, it often zips right through Level III / RF1 plates with ease. I have tested this myself on steel plates, and out of a 20” barrel, those .22 projectiles are going right through anything at the Level III / RF1 protection level. Luckily, armor manufacturers and now, finally, the NIJ have recognized the need for a step up in the protection rating standards.
Level III+ / RF2
The Level III+ / RF2 is a welcome addition to armor standards. Level III+ was initially created (in many ways for marketing purposes) by armor manufacturers to demonstrate that their armor was more capable than a standard Level III / RF1 plate but did not quite meet the standards of a Level IV / RF3 plate. The issue was that the NIJ did not certify these plates as Level III+ was not one of their rating levels. Therefore, if a company was to want the NIJ certification on their product, it would be set a Level III / RF1 based on the parameters at the time. However, things have changed, and the new RF2 NIJ rating allows for Level III+ to be a certifiable standard into the future, which helps with consumer confidence that the armor they are buying can actually perform to the level it advertises. The main difference of Level III+ / RF2 armor is that it is rated for special threats. Generally, this means it can stop any Level III / RF1 threats while also stopping 5.56x45mm NATO M193 or M855. It still doesn’t quite reach Level IV/ RF3 requirements, but it does fill a major capability gap that Level III / RF1 was lacking. Here are some examples of armor plates that fit within this category:
- AR500 Armor A3 Body Armor Level III+ Ballistic Plate: This Level III+ / RF2 plate is an interesting design from AR500 Armor as it is actually a hybrid steel and polyethylene plate. By using both materials, they were able to bring what would usually be a Level III / RF1 plate up to the protection level of a Level III+ / RF2. The steel strike face stops most threats, and the polyethylene backer can absorb anything else that gets through within the threat level rating. Because of the use of steel, it uses a spall coating to decrease that risk. But it also has a limited shelf life because of the use of polyethylene. So it is a compromise by being hybrid in nature, but it is only 4.6 pounds and offers a lot of protection.
- Premier Body Armor Fortis GT Level III+ Ballistic Plate: Full disclosure, I work directly with Premier Body Armor and have been provided products from them for testing and evaluation. That being said, the Fortis GT Level III+ / RF2 plates are the personal armor plates I currently use. Not only do these plates meet my requirements of defeating 7.62 NATO and 5.56 NATO, including M855, but they are also very lightweight at 4.5 pounds with edge-to-edge protection. I have extensively tested this particular plate, and it stopped all of the threats it was rated for, including M855 out of a 20” barrel. These are excellent plates and are generally much lighter than a Level IV / RF3 plate while still providing a lot of protection. They’re made of UHMWPE and Boron/Silicon Carbide tiles which allows these plates to have a slightly longer shelf life/warranty term of 7 years.
This threat rating of Level III+ / RF2 is generally the protection level I suggest at this point in time for most people who are serious about wearing body armor while being capable of carrying a little extra weight. They bring an excellent balance between weight, protection, and affordability. For the average prepared citizen, the threats are unlikely to exceed 7.62 NATO, 5.56 NATO, 7.62x39, or any other common fighting rifle cartridges that these plates will stop. And by not going up to Level IV / RF3 plates, you save the extra weight burden and some money in the process.
Level IV / RF3 armor plates are rated for all of the previous threats that the previous armor levels stop while also being able to defeat one round of 30-06 Armor Penetrating (30-06 M2 AP) ammunition. What’s great about Level IV / RF3 armor plates is that you’re ensuring that most small arms cartridges can be stopped by the armor you’re wearing. Even most of the big, magnum hunting rounds. There is a peace of mind related to covering all of the threats that armor is intended to stop. But there are some compromises you have to make in order to achieve that level of protection, including weight, cost, and fragility. Here are some products that can help demonstrate Level IV / RF3 armor options:
- BulletSafe Stand Alone Level IV Ballistic Plate: This is a very affordable Level IV / RF3 armor plate that provides maximum protection at a budget-friendly price. However, you will find that you will still pay a cost as “affordable” and “Level IV/ RF3” don’t usually mix very well together. In this case, that cost comes in the form of weight. Each of these Level IV/ RF3 plates weighs 7.5 pounds thanks to the alumina-oxide composition. Although this level of protection sounds great on paper, running two of these plates weighs 6 pounds more than the aforementioned Level III+ / RF2, only offering the additional protection of one round of 30-06 M2 AP. However, this plate is cheaper than those plates, so it may still be worth the trade-off based on budget.
- Premier Body Armor Fortis IV/RF3 Level IV Ballistic Plate: Another affordable Level IV / RF3 armor option; this is a plate that I have personally tested, so I do have some anecdotal feedback that may be beneficial. This plate emulates the previous plate in many ways. Level IV / RF3 protection on a budget that costs you extra weight. These plates also weigh 7.5 pounds and are constructed of UHMWPE and alumina-oxide. When a rifle round impacts a plate with this type of construction, the alumina-oxide tiles that are capable of stopping the 30-06 M2 AP rounds explode out of the strike face leaving large cavities in the armor. If a round were to land inside of a pre-existing cavity, it would likely penetrate through the armor. This is why armor plates of this kind of construction are not generally multi-hit rated and may be more susceptible to impacts weakening the armor.
Although Level IV/ RF3 armor plates offer the highest level of protection on the market right now, they usually have additional costs that are hard to justify for a prepared citizen. If you are in law enforcement or the military, the additional protection may be justified. But as a civilian, you are either going to pay a lot more money for Level IV / RF3 protection for it to be lightweight or you are going to save money but pay in the form of a weight penalty. At least in my point of view, the tradeoffs are often not worth the minimal additional protection provided by Level IV / RF3, as encountering 30-06 M2 AP is highly unlikely for someone like myself. And, if that were to occur, it’s even more unlikely that I’d only need to survive one round of it making an impact.
Body Armor Wrap-Up
Hopefully, all of the above information can help you make a more informed decision regarding purchasing body armor. It can be a little confusing and there are a lot of different considerations you need to make beforehand. Just to clarify my overall thoughts, I think having some concealable Level IIIA / HG2 armor (something like the Premier Body Armor Everyday Armor T-Shirt) and an overt, plate carrier-oriented armor setup (a Blue Force Gear PLATEminus 6 Plate Carrier with 2x Premier Body Armor Fortis GT Level III+ 10” x 12” Ballistic Plates) really covers the bases of what a prepared citizen would need. I like the versatility and lightweight aspect of Level IIIA / HG2 armor for most scenarios where a threat is minimal or at the least unlikely to involve a rifle. The overt plate carrier setup is great for home defense, community defense and putting time in on the range with a great way to carry those extra reloads. Whatever you decide on, be aware that body armor is a personal choice, and you may decide to change your mind down the road based on experience or a developed opinion. Ask me how I know this.
--Magic Prepper